On the edge of the world

Amidst low-lying sand dunes far, far removed from the maddening crowd, this is where the journey begins. Gentle waves break onto pristine shores setting a clean slate for footsteps yet to be taken… the start of a breathtaking escape located on the edge of the world.

It’s surely true that every trail tells a story, yet this one is exceptional. In a supremely beautiful and serene environment, the Tasmanian wilderness welcomes and intrigues along an epic sweep of coastline, gently encouraging the senses to come alive and leave the everyday behind.

Under a sheltering sky, the white sand unfurls and ochre-tinted boulders rise up ahead. Traces of ancient land lie dotted off the coast, evidence of a connection lost long ago with the mainland, but resolutely unforgotten. From far away to up-close, the sea offers up a myriad of delight, both intricate and wild. Plump kelp lulls on the water’s edge, seemingly tickled by its ebb and flow as a seahorse skeleton is discovered and marvelled at, along with an almost-intact shark’s egg - a rare find. 10,000 year-old middens of discarded shells speak of a time when Aboriginal tribes would migrate and forage for shellfish, mutton birds and seals - sites of significance that remain unperturbed, save for the watchful eye of the wind.

Unconsciously, feet fall into a steadfast rhythm and sedentary legs are re-awakened. Footsteps that lead from the known into the unknown are rewarded for their effort with shelter at the end of the day, as set back from the beach, a hidden cluster of small pavilions rests and waits with open arms to welcome both guides and travellers with fresh food and wine to soothe. And as night falls, the air chills and the sky darkens to reveal a majestic symphony of slow-blinking stars to watch over camp, the soporific rhythm of the waves a lulling backdrop to a faultless night’s sleep. 

Dawn breaks, and the local wallaby could well be forgiven for feeling so at home, having grown accustomed to the sights and sounds of the trekkers’ activity. In the distance, Eddystone Point Lighthouse stands proud and marks the halfway point of the second day’s journey.

An expanse of beach and wilderness stretches ahead, a sublime balance of beauty that beckons discovery. Slightly inland, a track of various prints bears witness to the gathering of nocturnal animals on an open lawn, and there’s an undeniable vigour in the air as a glance skyward reveals the gentle arc of a sea eagle swooping gracefully overhead.

Past eternally brilliant waters to the left and an endless expanse of wilderness to the right, the senses begin to sharpen and a calm settles, as if every step reveals an energy from within and casts aside the weight of the world. Time is taken to relax at a secluded cove to eat and revive a little, to look out towards the horizon and marvel at the quiet of the ocean and its sparkling perfection. Past the lighthouse and onto the breathtaking Bay Of Fires beach, an unsullied stretch of magic that reinvigorates and encourages backpacking bodies one step at a time to remote coves comprised entirely of shells; a revelation of natural treasures waiting to be explored.

And then you see it, effortlessly nestled atop the hillside: the Bay of Fires Lodge. There’s a true sense of achievement as you draw near, of having conquered the elements and celebrating with panoramic views, gourmet meals and the bliss of a burning log fire.  A more seamless fusion of ecologically-aware architecture merged with the surrounding nature would be difficult to find, particularly one in such an unspoiled location. 

Backpacks are removed and camaraderie is plentiful, with stories swapped on deckchairs or fireside. A paddymelon hops past the windowed wall and the sun sets over bushland, gradually snuffed out by the early evening as red skies turn to inkiest blue.

Boundless wonders take place on this journey, an awakening of body and soul – a reinvigoration of the spirit that will stay long after the final step is taken.