The Spirit of Endurance

There is a place that lies far, far from home, a place infused with eons-old resilience, a place in the world so wondrously unique it has captured the imagination of all who have witnessed its splendour and marvelled in its unapologetic vastness. This is Wilpena Pound, a natural amphitheatre covering 8000 hectares in the Flinders Ranges - an outback experience unlike any other and home to the Adnyamathanha people for thousands of years.

For it is in the Aboriginal Dreaming that this land has its most mystical roots and tells the story of how Wilpena ('Ikara') came into being. The creation story tells of a corroboree and initiation ceremony that was to take place at Wilpena. At the same time, two powerful serpents (The Akurra) made their way south to the area, entering the Pound via Edeowie Gap and camping at Akurra Awl, a large waterhole.  Gazing up, the people saw bright stars rising and took this as a sign to commence the ceremony. Unbeknown to them, the stars were actually the eyes of the serpents. The two Akurra came up on either side of the ceremony and created a whirlwind, devouring all inside, the large sleeping serpents’ bodies then forming the sides of Wilpena Pound.

Indeed, this is a landscape with an immense history and many stories to tell. It is almost as if the earth, in one almighty shrug, shouldered her way upwards to create a rugged, protruding spine that rises stoically from the land below, a geological marvel that echoes with timeless spirit and unimaginable endurance. For this is one of the oldest land masses on earth, one formed 800 million years ago, with the initial height of the Pound estimated to be equivalent to that of Mount Everest.

Noble mountains and gorges undulate across the countryside and a steely patience is profoundly etched in its soul. Stubborn bushes and trees cling to the earth, refusing to give into the cruel whims of drought and flood; a stalwart and inherent presence on the outback landscape.

It is of little wonder the area has attracted and inspired photographers and painters alike throughout the years. Artist Sir Hans Heysen described the Flinders Ranges as “nature’s bones laid bare”, the mountainous spine of the South Australian outback providing a richly honest palette from which to work. Quartzite, shale and red earth, dotted trees and roughly hewn silhouettes - a plethora of raw beauty that graces innumerable canvases.

Australian photographer, Harold Cazneaux, was also drawn to the landscape. Near the Wilpena Pound resort stands ‘Cazneaux Tree’, a stately red river gum tree that “speaks to us of a Spirit of Endurance”. Proud and isolated, it has withstood the adversities of the years and bears each scar resolutely. It is an unconquered symbol of the outback; a triumphant soul that stands in defiance of whatever nature may pass its way.

In this captivating vastness there is a hushed stillness. Witness the sunlight silently trickling down through gaps in the numerous leafy gum trees, curious rays gently tickling their way across the earth to fill the morning with warmth and a stunning glow that prompts intermittent laughter from the throats of kookaburras, equally delighted in welcoming the new day with such distinctive eloquence.  

From the ground, it is immeasurably gratifying to be up close and personal with such astonishing beauty. On foot, there are many paths to be followed, ranging from easy walks to a full day’s climb to St. Mary Peak, the highest point within the Pound. Via 4WD, one spies an unexpected variety of nature, for although this is a landscape of monolithic proportions, there is a subtly bustling animal and plant life that commands much more than a cursory glance. Ancient red river gums line mustard-coloured creek beds, their roots a mass of tangled limbs forever frozen in an elaborate dance as they determinedly reach deep below the surface. Emus run past at a steady gallop or lift their heads in curious acknowledgement of the passing vehicle whilst a lone Euro kangaroo hops away from this mild intrusion. Up in the sky, a wedge-tailed eagle circles with intent, swooping and gliding in an aerial display of survival (or is it glee?), and a flock of galahs squawk and carry on, seemingly taking offence to being observed as they go about their daily affairs.

As the car winds its way alongside the mountain range, wildflowers appear in clustered blooms and vie for attention. Microscopic in comparison to their panoramic surrounds, they are no less marvellous when viewed at close range. Buttercup yellows and rich reds dot the hillside and give way to spectacular views across the countryside, an unforgettable stretch of beauty for as far as the eye can see. Against a dazzling blue sky and breathing it all deeply in, this is a memory to last a lifetime.

However, it is truly from the air that the full majesty of the Pound is revealed. Climbing higher and higher, the earth recedes below yet the Pound seems to draw itself up to impress upon the viewer its mighty height in a show of dramatic strength. Soaring above, one can fully appreciate the mammoth proportions of this natural amphitheatre, a ragged circular skyline in shades of interlocking quartzite and red that traces the formidable shape, altering their shades as the sun arches its way slowly across the afternoon sky.

This place, this ancient, resilient landscape, is an outback jewel. Like nothing else on earth, it is imbued with indigenous spirit and geological wonders, a uniquely convergent history that beckons discovery. An experience never to be forgotten, Wilpena Pound will leave an indelible mark on all who visit this extraordinary setting.